The Oris Artelier Complication: A Refresh with a Twist
The Artelier Complication, a watch that has been a staple in the Oris lineup since the early 2000s, is getting a much-needed makeover. This elegant dress watch, known for its moon phases and 24-hour second time zone display, is being reimagined for the modern era. The task of breathing new life into this classic timepiece has been entrusted to Lena Huwiler, a young Product Design Engineer at Oris.
What makes this refresh particularly intriguing is the departure from the original design's four sub-dials. Huwiler's vision was to simplify the dial, creating a more contemporary and uncluttered look. By reducing the display to just two sub-dials, she achieved a vertical layout that is both visually appealing and functional. The round moon phase sub-dial at noon is mirrored by the slightly larger 24-hour sub-dial at 6 o'clock, providing a harmonious and balanced appearance.
One of the standout features of the Artelier Complication is its unique moon phase display. Unlike many other complications that use semi-circular apertures, the Artelier features a round counter, allowing for a perfect view of the moon's waxing and waning cycles against a starry night sky. The dial comes in three elegant colors: ivory, midnight blue, and chestnut, with the sub-dials matching the dial color for a seamless look. The slightly domed central area adds texture, while the sloping peripheral section provides a smooth transition.
Huwiler's attention to detail extends to the indices, which have been redesigned with wedge-shaped, tapering profiles. These faceted indices are applied to the smooth chapter ring, resting on the central grained area. The blunt-tipped hands complement the stepped indices, creating a cohesive and well-balanced design. The space freed by removing the two counters at 9 and 3 o'clock is now occupied by the brand names, adding a touch of elegance to the dial.
The Artelier Complication's case measures 39.5mm in diameter and 11.8mm in thickness, with a lug-to-lug width of 45.5mm. It is crafted from stainless steel and features a pusher at 4:30 to adjust the second time zone. The dial is protected by a domed sapphire crystal with an AR coating, while the caseback is screwed and features mineral glass. Despite its features, the watch remains 30m water-resistant, ensuring its practicality.
Powering this timepiece is the new calibre 782, an automatic movement based on the Sellita SW200-1. This movement eliminates the gearing for the additional indications, providing a more efficient and reliable performance. The 4Hz frequency and 41-hour power reserve make it a reliable companion for everyday wear. The movement is fitted with the brand's signature red rotor, adding a touch of Oris flair.
The Artelier Complication will be available in May 2026, offering two strap options: a steel bracelet for EUR 2,500 or a dark brown leather strap for EUR 2,300. This refresh showcases Oris' commitment to innovation while staying true to its heritage. It's a testament to the brand's ability to blend tradition with contemporary design, creating a watch that is both timeless and relevant in today's market.
In my opinion, this refresh is a welcome addition to the Artelier collection. The simplified dial and contemporary design make it a more accessible and appealing choice for those seeking an elegant dress watch with a touch of complication. The unique moon phase display and 24-hour second time zone add a layer of complexity that is both intriguing and practical. I look forward to seeing how this watch performs in the market and whether it will become a new favorite among watch enthusiasts.
