Auguste, a new Italian restaurant in Hackney, London, is a fascinating blend of old and new. Named after a clown, it pays homage to the tragic figure in Edward Hopper's painting, 'Soir Bleu'. The restaurant's owners, chef Mike Bagnall and general manager Dylan Walters, have transformed the space from its former life as Papi, a hip European-influenced small plates spot, into a modern Italian restaurant with a focus on Abruzzo cuisine. The menu features skewers or arrosticini, tiny mini kebabs with meat cut into 1cm cubes and grilled over a furnacella. The live-fire craze among London's hospitality scene is evident here, with the arrosticini being a big draw. On a Wednesday night just three weeks after its opening, Auguste was packed with a loyal, ardent fan base, seemingly unaware of the new circus in town. The menu offers a range of small plates, including bite-size potato rösti topped with blue cheese cream, cured sea bream with a puttanesca salsa, and chicken saltimbocca wrapped in prosciutto and sage. However, the meal felt more like a collection of loose ideas than a coherent dinner. The arrosticini, while delicious, were a little too pink, and the dessert options were underwhelming. Auguste shows some fleeting moments of greatness, but there's plenty of room for improvement. The restaurant's loyal fan base may be unaware of the changes, but the new owners have a challenging task ahead of them to create a truly memorable dining experience. Auguste is a must-visit for those seeking a unique dining experience, but it will take time and effort to refine its offerings and create a cohesive menu. In my opinion, the restaurant has the potential to become a beloved destination for food lovers in London, but it will need to work on its execution and attention to detail to reach that goal.
